Among knitted cardigan fabric properties, yarn twist selection is a key factor influencing pilling resistance and wear durability. Yarn twist refers to the number of twists per unit length of yarn and directly determines the yarn's structural tightness, interfiber cohesion, and overall strength. For knitted cardigan, yarn twist not only changes the feel and appearance of the fabric but also profoundly impacts pilling during wear and fabric durability by affecting fiber stability and abrasion resistance.
The impact of yarn twist on fabric pilling primarily reflects the degree of fiber anchoring. Yarns with lower twist have a looser structure and weaker interfiber cohesion. During wear, when the fabric surface is subjected to friction, fibers tend to slip and protrude from the yarn, forming hairiness. These hairs become entangled and form pilling. Yarns with higher twist, on the other hand, have tighter fibers, increasing friction between fibers and preventing them from slipping or shedding. This reduces surface hairiness and reduces the likelihood of pilling. However, higher twist is not necessarily better. Excessive twist can make the yarn stiff and the fabric feel rough. Furthermore, excessive rigidity can lead to localized fiber breakage during friction, resulting in the formation of new hairiness and impaired pilling performance.
The relationship between yarn twist and wear durability is reflected in the yarn's strength and abrasion resistance. Properly increasing yarn twist enhances the yarn's overall strength, making it less susceptible to breakage when subjected to external forces such as stretching and friction. During the wear of knitted cardigans, areas such as the elbows and shoulders are subject to repeated friction and stretching. Yarns with medium to high twist can better withstand these forces, reducing yarn breakage and fabric damage, thereby extending the wear life of the garment. Conversely, yarns with too low twist, due to their loose structure and insufficient strength, are more susceptible to fiber breakage and yarn relaxation under the forces of daily wear, leading to fabric damage and deformation, and reducing wear durability.
Yarn twist also indirectly affects fabric durability by affecting its structural stability. Yarns with moderate twist create a more stable fabric structure, with strong inter-loop cohesion, making them less susceptible to deformation or loosening during wear and washing. This stability allows knitted cardigan to maintain its shape over time, reducing localized wear and tear caused by fabric loosening, thereby extending its service life. Fabrics woven with yarns with too low a twist, on the other hand, have looser loops and are easily deformed by external forces during wear. This not only affects the appearance but also causes uneven localized stress on the fabric, accelerating wear. Yarns with excessively high twist can be too rigid, resulting in reduced elasticity and fatigue fracture after repeated stretching, also affecting durability.
Yarns made from different fiber materials have varying twist requirements, further complicating the impact of twist on fabric performance. For natural fibers such as wool and cotton, due to their inherent elasticity and cohesion, an appropriate twist can meet the requirements for pilling resistance and durability. However, chemical fibers such as polyester and acrylic, due to their smooth surfaces and weaker cohesion, generally require a higher twist to enhance inter-fiber anchoring, reduce pilling, and improve durability. Therefore, when selecting yarn twist, it's important to consider fiber properties to find the optimal balance between pilling resistance and durability.
The impact of yarn twist on the fabric's feel is indirectly related to its wear experience and durability. Yarns with too low a twist produce a soft and fluffy feel, but overly soft fabrics are more susceptible to friction and snagging during daily wear, increasing the risk of pilling and breakage. Yarns with too high a twist produce a stiff and crisp feel. While this offers better pilling resistance, it also reduces comfort. Excessively stiff fabrics can easily rub against the body during movement, potentially accelerating localized wear. Therefore, yarn twist selection must balance both feel and comfort, ensuring the fabric reduces pilling while maintaining good durability while still providing comfort.
The selection of yarn twist for knitted cardigan requires a balance between fiber anchorage, yarn strength, structural stability, fiber properties, and feel. Appropriate twist can effectively reduce fabric pilling, enhance yarn abrasion resistance, and improve fabric structural stability, thereby improving wear durability. However, twist that is too low or too high can negatively impact pilling resistance and durability. In actual production, yarn twist must be precisely adjusted based on the fiber raw material, garment style, and wearing requirements to ensure knitted cardigan maintains a good wearing experience while also exhibiting excellent pilling resistance and a long wear life.
